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Wednesday 21 June 2017

#15 Alesis io|26 repair & modding

So, i got my hands on one of these Alesis io|26 interfaces for pretty cheap (50 bucks delivered). "Of course", i bought it as faulty (can you see a pattern yet?), with the already "classic" issue of dead Firewire chip (the ubiquitous Texas Instruments TSB41AB2).


I went for it mainly for two reasons. First, because i knew it was based on the TC Applied Technologies Dice II chip, and as such, should have flexible enough mixing / routing options; second, due to the ADAT inputs available. The sort of "added bonus", one might say, were the gain adjustments for the 8 analog (mic/line) inputs.

Before we "get into the meat of'er" (sorry, just can't shake AvE's influence...), how's about a bit of a going-over, hmm? Yes? I thought you'd agree.


The unit's made up of several smaller circuit boards. Fair enough, i suppose - you need at least four layers to fan out all the signals from the Dice II chip (200-some-odd balls), but the rest of the circuitry can do just fine on cheaper two-layer boards. And besides, smaller boards are less costly (you can fit more copies onto the same panel), and if anything goes wrong during assembly or whatever, it won't affect the overall yield that badly - you only need to replace a smaller sub-board, instead of the entire all-encompassing board.


The unit can be either bus-powered, or from the included plug-pack (or wall-wart, or whatever your preferred term is). Out of that single DC input voltage, you need to source several (other) voltages - +/-10-15v for the opamps and whatever else is in the analog stages; 5v / 3.3v / 2.5v (more rarely) / 1.8v for the various digital components. In this case, it's a daughterboard, piggy-backed on top of the main digital / processor board.


No real rocket-science going on there - a multi-secondary flyback converter. Couldn't be bothered to identify the PWM controller, but that'll be the MSOP8-packaged chip surrounded by that myriad of passives. Nice beefy DPAK N-channel MOSFET, and an assortment of diodes, capacitors and inductors.

On to the digital board - nothing terribly shocking here either. Dice II is "the brains of the operation" (oh, AvE...); Spansion flash chip containing the firmware; Samsung RAM chip; and surprisingly enough, a Freescale Semiconductor (now NXP) DSPB56374AFC. I have literally no idea what that's doing on the board - this io|26 isn't advertised to have any DSP capabilities available, and the Dice II itself is very much capable of signal mixing & routing on its own. I know for a fact my old Saffire Pro 40 contained no extra DSP chips of any sort, and the hardware 18x16 matrix mixer within the Dice II worked plenty fine. Go figure...


I was surprised to see that extra Wavefront Semiconductor AL1402 in the corner there. That's a "naughty" (or "novel"?) way of bringing in that second ADAT input. That being said, it's a way LESS over-engineered way to achieve that - they used an entirely separate Dice Jr. in my StudioKonnekt 48, for the second set of ADAT in/outs (which are only used at 96kHz anyway).

Output board - nothing to write home about here either, just "business as usual". There's the Cirrus Logic CS4382ACQZ 8-channel DAC, and a handful of MC33078 dual opamps, and the associated passives. Although granted, this also is only an "after (the mods)" photo, so that's enough of a sneak preview by now.


Not all that much to see on the input side either - your regular assortment of connectors and passive components.


That being said, i WAS quite surprised to see the preamps were developed around the THAT 1510 chips. I could be mistaken, but i think those go for a good few bucks each, so... Take from that what you will. And the DC blocking caps in the gain control section were Nichicon HM, no less. "Downstream" from those there's a handful of MC33079 quad opamps, a couple of TL072, and two Cirrus Logic CS<didn't-write-the-part-number-down-and-i-can't-read-it-in-the-photos> 2-channel ADCs.



First step was, obviously, swapping out the Firewire interface chip. Sadly, i had run out of brand new ones (although there's a few in my Mouser shopping cart with my name on'em). On the bright side though, that was a bit of a non-issue, in fact - since the Konnekt 8 i had scavenged the Dice II chip from, as described in an earlier blog post here, i figured i wouldn't be needing the services of the TSB41AB2 (which i knew to be good) that was on that particular board, so... Why the hell not?

The "transplant" succeeded uneventfully, and after installing the drivers, as expected (or at least hoped), the thing works just fine. That being said, the control GUI looks oh-so-very-90's-ish... I mean, see for yourselves...

And now we come to the part of the <ahem> project that gets really interesting. In previous Dice II-based interfaces i've owned (Focusrite Saffire Pro 40) or, respectively, still own (the aforementioned TC Electronics StudioKonnekt 48), one can route almost any input signal to any output. Unfortunately, the io|26 was ever so slightly "gimped" in this area.

The main idea was to be able to use the unit stand-alone (ie. without being connected to a computer), as a crude mono "monitor mixer" of sorts. I was hoping to be able to route the signals from one ADAT input (ie. 8 channels of audio) to the 8 analog outputs, and then run wires from said analog outputs (inside the unit) to the line inputs, to allow for gain adjustment for each channel. That would all get subsequently downmixed and spat out into the headphone ouput.

But that's where i hit a bit of a snag - the "Phones 1" output is hard-wired to mirror the analog outputs 1/2, while "Phones 2" can be selected to mirror either of the four pairs of analog outs. Bugger... Ah well, no matter, i guess i'll be able to "reuse" only 6 of the 8 audio channels from the ADAT. Way better than nothing, anyway.

A couple minutes of fiddling in the HDM software to set up the signal routing (panning left/right and turning up the respective pairs of ADAT inputs' levels, for each "output mix" pertaining to analog outs 3-8, as well as turning up the levels for analog ins 3-8 for the analog out 1/2 pair, which also goes to "Phones 1"), and that was that for the software side of things. And now, for the hardware...

The intention was quite straighforward, but the... practicalities of it, shall we say, made the endeavour somewhat more annoying (or at the very least, fiddly). Granted, part of that was down to my decision to reuse a couple of pieces of shielded cable that were juuuuuust long enough for the task at hand. Hey, no point in creating waste, am i right? I'm saving the planet here!..

Right, where were we? Ah, wiring up the thing - or rather, the mods. The analog output board was easy enough to "decode". Impedance-balanced outputs (ie. the "ring" of the 1/4" TRS socket is not actively driven), and the post-DAC low-pass filter op-amps have double duty as output buffers. The board's also a single-sided load (with no components on the bottom side), so i didn't need to go around "hunting" for traces / signals everywhere.


The signal take-off points i decided would be the "inside" ends of the 220 ohm resistors in series with the outputs. As chance would have it, right next to those were some unused SOT23-footprint pads, likely for some muting transistors, as what is usually the emitter went to ground. Just as well, a handy spot to solder the shield of the signal cables.

Next step, identifying the pins associated with the 1/4" jack sections of the input "combo" connectors. Fortunately(?), Alesis went with the non-switched versions (which have 6 pins), which made things a lot more straightforward than if they were switched (12 pins). Since my signal was single-ended, and coming from within the same enclosure / device, but without any actual input jacks inserted, i decided to run the signal wire to the "tip" pin, but the shield (which was grounded) to the "ring" pin. I figured that would be the safest route; leaving the "ring" pin (aka. "cold", in a balanced line) floating would've invited the potential for noise ingress - at least in my mind. Grounding the "ring" happens by default when using an unbalanced 1/4" jack line input, so it definitely couldn't and wouldn't do any harm.


And result? A rowsing success! A -3dB FS signal on the ADAT input lights up the -24dB FS LEDs with the gain knob at minimum, so plenty of headroom left there. One nice touch is an encoder that adjusts the level between the "direct" inputs (ie. hardware inputs) and the "software" ones (from the computer. The manual says, "This knob controls the amount of direct signal (from the analog and digital inputs) that gets blended in to outputs 1/2". I found use for it basically as an overall attenuator - quite handy, if not even necessary, because at least on the first headphone output, the matching of the two sides of the volume pot is really off at the bottom of the range, and it gets pretty loud pretty fast.

A task for a later time: making a cutout in the rear of the case, and figuring out how to shoehorn in a DIY'd CAT5-to-ADAT adapter. This is part of a little brainchild / pet project of mine, that i've been brainstorming for a while now. That, and maaaaaaaaaybe adding some pad resistors where the wires connect to the line input solder pads, but i'm not even all that sure that's mandated.

49 comments:

  1. Hi, Thanks for the article on repairing your Alesis io26. I have two Alesis io14 units which have non-working firewire, which have been caused by an upside down firewire plug inserted.
    Is it a difficult job to replace the TSB41AB2 chip?
    Thanks

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. With a hot-air station (even a cheap one), it's a walk in the park. You'll want to add some flux, or at least some fresh (flux-cored) leaded solder to the pins, but the belly-pad may or may not also be soldered to the board, so take your time.

      Once the fried chip is off, you'll want to clean all the pads with solder-wick (either fluxed, or add flux yourself). Soldering the new chip on is up to you - i prefer to do it with my soldering iron, and not bother with soldering the belly-pad as well (in normal conditions, these chips shouldn't need that much heatsinking anyway). I've been using a couple such interfaces (ie. without soldered belly-pad) for years, and haven't had any problem.

      To make double-sure "for the future", you might also want to add some solder to the outside joint / seam of the metal shell of the Firewire connectors, so they won't be so willing to "make way" for upside-down insertions.

      Delete
  2. Howdy! I have a question about this interface if you are still there. I think it is power supply or power amp.

    Let me know.. Thanks

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. This isn't (nor does it contain) a power amp, but go on...

      Delete
  3. Hi again,

    I am super ignorant about electronics but I am guessing there is something wrong with power supply or internal amplifier (?).
    Anyways, just a few days ago I plugged in a power supply which was a little over io26's tolerance range. It was a 12V 1.5A adapter.
    So, it actually worked well for a few minutes and I noticed a significant heat around the knobs.
    Next day, when I plugged it directly to my desktop, it worked for a few minutes. Same with the original adapter (i am mostly using it with my laptop).
    All the LEDs goes off and output volume (out 1 and 2) drops significantly. The weird thing is it still works with very low output and my computer still recognize it.
    I am pretty good at soldering but I can't really guess which component to replace.
    What would be your best bet?
    Thanks

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I'm not quite sure how 12v / 1.5A could or would be "over the tolerance range" - the back of the unit says "9-30V DC 15W". Your power supply, at least in theory, should be just the ticket.

      Now, we can't yet know what shape that power supply's in - cheap cut-rate stuff from the Far East isn't exactly the most trustworthy or (necessarily) reliable.

      Then again, assuming your computer is a desktop, this should be able to also work with bus-power alone (ie. without a separate power supply).

      Either way, cracking the unit open and start with a visual check. Then, move on to the first rule of troubleshooting - thou shalt measure voltages.

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  4. I thought 12V 1.5A adapter provided 18A to the interface but anyway the unit is now open. I have a voltmeter but I don't kmow how to measure voltages. That little orange thing next to power input (pic 4 in your post) looks bad. I am also planning to replace some odd looking caps.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. 1) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electric_power#Definition
      2) https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ohm's_law
      3) "Looks bad" meaning what, exactly? Charred? Maybe you can link to a photo?

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  5. let me begin saying, great work, i was looking for some info in the wavefront dice II and stumbled upon you, the thing is, i got the same alesis interface, and as the canadian says, she chooches no more. i got as far as checking the voltages, i got 3.3 1.5 5 -15 and +15. but now i dont know how to proceed, should i try swaping the brain? or is it something else i could try before? i never reballed a chip, i "reflowed" a couple of laptops gpus, but id say that the odds of me successfully transplanting the brains well.... if you put money down you could make a pretty penny.

    thankyou anyway

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I'm glad to hear my tinkering and ramblings are of use for someone else than just myself :)

      Well, what are the symptoms of the unit? Does it power on? Boot? Get detected by the computer?

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    2. is dead as rock, not even one led blinks :/

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    3. I don't suppose you have access to an oscilloscope, do you? Checking some clock signals would be a place to start.

      Second, corrupted firmware would also result in no booting - i had a TC StudioKonnekt 48 like that, a couple months ago. Cloned the contents of the flash out of my older one, and it came right back to life.

      Worst case, the Dice chip could be dead, indeed...

      Delete
  6. Hi again, I am back.
    Here is the links for the pics:
    1. https://www.dropbox.com/s/swvj8bzun624n6x/1.jpg?dl=0
    (Bad cap - the first 150 HFK?)

    2. https://www.dropbox.com/s/oaqur59hm5x4n6u/2.jpg?dl=0
    (I am not sure if this brownish stuff under the input port is something normal)

    3. https://www.dropbox.com/s/pd317c54ag8u36e/3.jpg?dl=0
    (Is this ultron generator going bad? :)

    Thanks

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. 1 - Can't see anything wrong with those electrolytics. The top one might be a bit dirty (wipe it with your finger), but it's not bloated or burst - that stamped vent would be visibly cracked open.

      2 - That's just flux residue from the soldering process, perfectly normal.

      3 - That's the isolation transformer for the S/PDIF input or output (can't tell / remember which).

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  7. Hi, I read this article when you first published it (always useful to know stuff about this interface (I've had mine in constant use since 2007))
    About a week ago, on returning from a break, I powered up my system only to find that my Alesis io26 was dead! I fiddled with it for a while and discovered that when I remove the AC adapter, it works fine—using power from my PC. I tested the power supply, and it's showing 12v; however, when it's plugged into the interface (I'm guessing that the mechanical switch on the power socket cuts the FireWire power), nadda!
    I feel cheeky asking you if this rings any bells, but as much as I'm proficient with an iron, and I recognize various components, I don't really know how to test to establish what's blown, and I do occasionally use this as a mixer using it's own power source.

    Thanks

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. You might want to check those diodes (D1, D2 and D3) tha are around the DC input socket. Use your multimeter's diode check function (black probe on the "band" end of the diode, red probe on the other side). For those SK34 Schottky diodes, you'd expect a reading of 0.2-0.4V or so, well under 0.6V.

      By what i can glance from the photos i made at the time, D2 goes from the DC in to the main power rail. D3 might(?) carry the Firewire power, but don't quote me on that. D1 might just be "channeling" some voltage to a sense-line, for detecting when the DC plug-pack is connected.

      The Firewire bus-power may or may not be going through L1 and L2. Measure the voltage between those and ground - you can do that with the DC-DC daughterboard removed (to ease probing).

      Delete
    2. Hi again, Thanks for the advice. I'm working all this week, but I'll get my meter out and check them out this weekend; just wanted to thank you for taking time to help me.

      Delete
  8. Great post! I bought one of These from eBay. The seller claimed it worked perfectly. I hoped it up to my pc and it powers on but the computer doesn't detect it. It does just fine detecting my Presonus fp10. The seller tried one of those cheap FireWire to USB adapters on it (I know because it came with it). I've read those can damage electronics. Do you think it's possible that this could have damaged the TI chip for the FireWire? I'm running Windows Vista 64 bit on the testing machine and it has a Via chipset. I have also considered that it might be a software issue or an issue with the computers FireWire chipset. I don't want to start a return for it being defective if the seller sold a working unit.

    Any advice/insight is greatly appreciated!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. To the best of my knowledge, there is no such actual adapter. Or, well, i've never encountered one of those myself, and from a brief search now, they don't seem to work with audio interfaces anyway. Out of sheer curiosity, do you have a photo of it?

      Well, if your computer can detect other FW devices fine, but not this one, the suspect is pretty clear. Even without installing the drivers, i think the computer should detect there's SOME new hardware connected, and prompt you for a driver.

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    2. Thank you for your help. It's the same adapter they sell on Amazon. I think I'll have to ask for a return since they sold a defective item and although I think I can probably fix it, I don't think it's worth the risk unless they offer a partial refund 😂

      Delete
    3. Yeah, i really don't see how that would work - USB uses two bidirectional data lines plus power and ground, while FW uses two differential pairs of bidirectional data lines, plus power and ground (in the 6-pin version).

      Well, without a hot-air station, i wouldn't recommend DIY-ing the repair. In a pinch, you might be able to get away with cutting the legs of the stock FW chip with an Xacto knife or something, then adding fresh solder to "wash away" the remaining pins on the board. I usually solder in the new chips manually "anyway".

      Delete
  9. Sorry I forget to attach a link to the adapter. I found one just like it on Amazon.

    https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VRN2OTY/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_t1_Hb7cCbTP970PM

    ReplyDelete
  10. You have a lot of knowledge when it comes to electronics. Just out of sheer curiosity, have you ever considered designing your own interface?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Not really - coding / programming is where i draw the line (ie. my experience ends). The hardware's not that big a deal, but without drivers and whatnot, all you're left with is, at best, a digital mixer.

      Delete
  11. That makes sense. I really want to get more into electronics. I hope one day to be able to make high quality reasonably priced components... But I have a lot to learn first lol

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Before you learn to run, you must learn to walk, etc. I wasn't born with everything i know (either), i was just passionate about it. And back in my teens, the internet was a pretty "new" thing, and resources were quite limited.

      Nowadays, especially with all the resources available (even if we "only" think of a small handful of YouTube channels and/or forums), one has no excuses, assuming one is indeed passionate and determined to learn.

      One invaluable resource, which i was fortunate to come across relatively early, is Rod Elliott's goldmine of a website: http://sound.whsites.net/articles.htm

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  12. I will definitely check that out, thank you so much!

    ReplyDelete
  13. I have a question. I Bought one of these back in 2007 and recently bought a second one off eBay for 60$ . My question is can you daisy chain and or plug both units into a pc to gain a total of 16 channels instead of going with seat.(as in use both interfaces simultaneously

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. That depends entirely on whether the driver is capable of so-called "device aggregation".

      If you (only) need / want more (mic) inputs, the cheapest option i've found is the M-Audio ProFire 2626. I've got two of them connected only via ADAT to my MOTU 896mk3 in my recording rig. I used to have a couple of MOTU 8Pre's, but i got more for (re)selling those than i would have, for the 2626's.

      Delete
    2. Yes, I'm using two io26 interfaces as I write this. They both appear in the control panel and in the HDM software (on Mac). Automatically aggregated to provide 52 ins and 16 outs. If you don't need lots of preamp gain for your mics, they are wonderful.

      Delete
  14. I use reaper software . Are you saying that the pc's io26 digital interface would need a aggregation option or the software? thank you

    ReplyDelete


  15. What a surprise,
    I asked myself why it isn't possible to selct multiple devices as in- and output with windows (Regarding ASIO I remember the sentence: one rules all).
    Now I read here.
    http://forum.cockos.com/showthread.php?t=148265 the following

    Quote:

    Originally Posted by serr 

    ... You make what is called an aggregate device of the multiple interfaces you connect with the OS utility Audio MIDI Setup (ASIO4ALL for Windows). Then select the aggregate device as your interface in Reaper and you then have access to all the ins and outs from all devices. ...


    *****found this online. so this mean s that using 2 interfaces would work if I use two Alesis for now up to 16 channels!? If so that is the CHEAPEST solution for my pc has several firewire hookups.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Well, before you go the Asio4All route, it might be worth just hooking them both up (even daisy-chaining them), and see if you then have more ins & outs show up in Reaper. Maybe you will, maybe you won't. In case you don't, THEN you'll wanna give Asio4All a go. Just note that there's a chance you won't be able to achieve latencies as low as for a single unit (and/or with its own ASIO driver). Asio4All was made rather to provide an ASIO interface to audio devices (or drivers, rather) that didn't come with one.

      PS: Just because your FW card has several connectors, doesn't mean they're each on a separate bus, so it would be no different from daisy-chaning them (i think), but testing each way should be simple enough.

      Delete
  16. wanna give Asio4All a go. Just note that there's a chance you won't be able to achieve latencies as low as for a single unit.

    **care to elaborate? I would typically record and then alter/eq parts. not using it for live purposes . would this matter?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. In that case, it probably won't affect you too much. Although if you have to overdub parts, do keep in mind you might end up needing to nudge the overdubs "backwards" (ie. earlier) in time, to make up for the extra latency.

      http://www.asio4all.org/Screenshot_29.jpg

      Note that you have adjustments for in/out latency compensation, and that "buffer offset" adjustment. It's been many years since i've last used Asio4All, so i'm not 100% sure if it allows you to set that to 0ms (or if it works that way).

      Delete
  17. Myron. THAN YOU so much for your two cents on everything. I love this board hence why I bought a second one and I phoned Alesis headquarters last week to which one of there techs said that "in theory" it should work and to let them know if it does for they never had a call from anyone asking if using two io26 is achievable . If in fact this works well I supose I'll buy more of these.
    thanks

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Sure, no worries. I'm surprised anyone there (ie. at Alesis) even cares about these "oldies" anymore.

      Slight shame they didn't include ADAT outputs as well, though (the chipset's well capable of handling those as well).

      But yeah, good luck with all that, and glad i could help. Two cents is all i've got, anyway :D

      Delete
  18. I've been looking into this as well...that is, the ADAT output idea. With your knowledge of this unit, do you think it's possible to somehow route all 8 preamps into one of the existing ADAT input jacks, and convert the jack to an 8 channel ADAT output? I know the Profire 2626 has this function built in, as long as you can get the software working to set it up.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Short answer - no.

      Long answer - first of all you'd need to change the optical components (from the factory, this comes with two RECEIVERS); and second, you'd need circuitry to encode the digitized inputs (you could tap off the serial data and clocks from the ADC outputs) into a valid ADAT stream.

      For what you sound like you need/want, you'd probably be better off with a Profire 2626 (assuming you have access to a Firewire-equipped computer, in order to configure the required settings), or something like a Behringer ADA8000 or ADA8200, which are self-contained and ready to go.

      Delete
  19. Hi Khron!
    Tell me please what drivers do you have on your Alesis?
    I'm tryin to install my Alesis IO 14 with the drivers from Alesis support site,on windows 10 ,and I got blue screen with "whea uncorrectable error" .
    Thanks

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. I haven't tried or used my io|26 in quite some time, but you might want to give a shot to installing the legacy Firewire driver. If memory serves, Windows 10 didn't even detect a Saffire Pro 40 with the stock Firewire driver.

      https://www.startech.com/en-fi/faq/firewire-cards-windows-legacy-driver-swap

      Delete
    2. Thank you.I tried,it doesn't work.i think is the firewire card,a VIA from cina.it doesn't let me install Legacy driver,I got blue screen.

      Delete
    3. That may well be the case; TI chipsets are usually recommended for Firewire audio.

      Delete
  20. Hi,
    Thank you very much for all this information. I have an Alesis IO26 which was not recognized by the computer. After reading this and another similar entry I decided to replace the TSB41AB2 chip and I bought a new one from Mouser (https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/TSB41AB2PAPRG4?qs=dqESbKqT1jatFvRx%2F%252BjSKQ%3D%3D). Since I don't have the equipment for doing it I sent the board with the new chip to an electronic repair shop. When I got the board with the new chip I assembled the IO26. But something went wrong when I tried to use it, the L4 inductor was burned-out (red circle in this picture: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1QTvOltAwQVgP8wYwE4w8zW-id6I4MTd2/view?usp=sharing). Obviously, the IO26 don't even turns on now, actual situation is worse than before. What could make the inductor to burn out? Could this be a consequence of a bad repair job? Is the chip choice (TSB41AB2PAPRG4) OK? What's the L4 specification? Should I also replace other components (i.e. R9)? Should I replace the TSB41AB2 chip again? I also bought a TSB41AB2PAPG4, would this work? Thank you very much in advance.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. It's tough to say what L4 is/was connected to. By the looks and placement of it though, it "should only" be a ferrite bead (1206-size, perhaps). Could be on the power input line from the Firewire connector, or it could be on the ground connection, between the connector and the board.

      I don't suppose you have a multimeter, do you?

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    2. Thank you very much for your reply, you are a very nice person. I found the Alesis Multimix Firewire 16 service manual, there are 4 ferrite beads which seem to be a similar to L1, L2 and L4 on the Alesis. These ferrite beads are all BLM41PG102SN1 (https://www.murata.com/en-us/products/productdetail?partno=BLM41PG102SN1%23) which is 1806 size. I just have a simple tester but I could get a multimeter if necessary. How can I safely remove the burned component?
      Again, thank you very much.

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    3. Those ferrite beads may be 1806-sized in the Multimix Firewire, but they're definitely not that big in the io|26.

      In case the service manual happens to include the board layouts, you should be easily able to see the difference in proportions, if not size.

      Regarding removing the toasted component, adding some (flux-cored) solder to each end of the ferrite bead would be a first step. Then, ideally, you'd want a wide flat tip on your soldering iron, that can reach to heat and melt the solder at both ends of the ferrite bead, and once the solder melts, you should be able to easily just push the remains off the pads. Then you'll want to clean the pads with some (fluxed) solder-wick.

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    4. Thank you very much for your reply! The toasted ferrite bead was replaced with one of the proper size but... while the interface is now recognized by the computer the top panels (vumeters, preamps, etc.) don't work. I checked the connections and they are OK. What could be wrong now?

      Delete
    5. Something in the power supply side got damaged as well..? Are all the supply rails reading what they should?

      You can measure between the negative terminals of the three "fattest" input(?) capacitors, and each terminal of each of the other silver electrolytics on the power supply board. At least for starters...

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